Find here a free Little Doll Crochet Pattern
I made this cute little crochet doll for the third birthday of a very special little girl called Rose. The pattern works really quickly and the crochet doll is the perfect size for little hands. I love how innocent she looks!
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SIZE:
7” / 18 cm tall when made with the indicated yarn.
MATERIALS:
• 4 different colors of yarns calling for a 5,5 mm hook
• Size 3.5 mm crochet hook
• 2 black safety eyes (7.5 mm)
• Acrylic brown yarn calling for a 5,5 mm hook (for the hair)
• Poly-Fil Fiberfill stuffing
• Stitch markers
• Tapestry needle
ABBREVIATIONS:
• chain (ch)
• magic ring (mr)
• single crochet (sc)
• increase (inc)
• invisible decrease (dec)
• slip stitch (sl st)
What did I use?
Light worsted yarn in black, red, white and cream
I used « I love this cotton ! » from Hobby Lobby in Black (color 2), White (color 6), Red (color 60) and Ivory (color 24).
I used Caron simply soft in chocolate to make the hair
How to crochet a doll?
Let’s start!
The crochet skirt – Little Doll Crochet Pattern
With the red yarn and the 3.5 mm hook
Work in rounds, do not turn unless specified. If needed, use a stitch marker for the first stitch of each round.
Round 1: ch 24 and join in your first ch to close your ring. (24)
Round 2: 1 sc in all st. (24)
Round 3: 1 sc in all st. (24)
Round 4: [1 sc in the next 3 st, 2 sc in the next st] x 6. (30)
Rounds 5 to 7 : 1 sc in all st. (30)
Cut the yarn and sew in the ends. Keep it for later.
The crochet arms (make 2) – Little Doll Crochet Pattern
With the cream yarn and the 3.5 mm hook
Work in rounds, do not turn unless specified. If needed, use a stitch marker for the first stitch of each round.
Round 1: start 4 sc in a magic ring. (4)
Round 2: [sc in next st, inc in next st] x2. (6)
Rounds 3 to 4: sc in all st. (6)
Round 5: [sc in 2 next st, 1 dec, sc in the next 2 st]. (5)
Round 6: [sc in 2 next st, 1 inc in next st, sc in the next 2 st]. (6)
Rounds 7 to 8: sc in all st. (6)
Change to the red yarn.
Rounds 9 to 12: 1 sc in all st. (6)
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The legs (make 2)
Work in rounds, do not turn unless specified. If needed, use a stitch marker for the first stitch of each round.
Starting with the red yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.
Round 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
Round 2: [1 sc in next st, inc in next st] x3. (9)
Round 3: [1 sc in next 2 st, inc in next st] x3. (12)
Round 4: [1 sc in all st]. (12)
Round 5: [1 sc in next 2 st, 1 dec] x3. (9)
Change for the white yarn.
Round 6: [sc in all st]. (9)
Change for the black yarn.
Round 7: [1 sc in all st]. (9)
Change for the white yarn.
Round 8: [1 sc in all st]. (9)
Change for the black yarn.
Round 9: [1 sc in all st]. (9)
Change for the white yarn.
Round 10: [1 sc in all st]. (9)
Change for the black yarn.
Round 11: [1 sc in all st]. (9)
Change for the white yarn.
Round 12: [sc in all st]. (9)
Change for the black yarn.
Round 13: [1 sc in all st]. (9)
Change for the white yarn.
Round 14: [1 sc in all st]. (9)
Cut the yarn, and sew in the ends.
The body and head – Little Doll Crochet Pattern
We are first going to make a magic circle that we will use to join the legs together.
With the white yarn and the 3.5 mm hook.
Round 1: start 4 sc in a magic ring. (4)
Round 2: make 1 sl st in the next st. Cut the yarn and sew in the end.
We are now joining the first leg to the circle (use the pictures below for additional help or feel free to contact me). The circle will be between both legs and attached to each leg by 1 stitch. Start with the left leg of your doll and determine where you want to join your circle (by doing this you can decide if you want the feet toward the outside or the inside). You can look at the pictures to see where I decided to join mine.
Once you have decided: insert your hook in the stitch of your leg and in a stitch of your magic circle (it does not matter which one) and make 1 sc.
Make 1 sc in the next st of your circle.
We are now going to join the second leg. As previously, determine where you want to join your circle. You can look at the pictures to see where I decided to join mine.
Once you have decided: insert your hook in the stitch of your leg and in a stitch of your magic circle (it does not matter which one) and make 1 sc.
Make 1 sc in the next st of your circle.
Both of the legs are now joined to your circle. We can now keep going with the body.
Round 1: Make 1 sc all around. (18) (here are some details for this round if you need it: 1 sc in the next 8 st (8 st from the first leg), 1 sc in the next st (st of the circle), 1 sc in the next 8 st (8 st from the second leg), 1 sc in the next st (st of the circle) which makes a total of 18 st).
Round 2: [1 sc in next 2 st, inc in next st] x6. (24)
Round 3: [1 sc in all st]. (24)
Stuff the legs.
We will now join the skirt. Change to the red yarn. Insert the skirt above the legs.
Round 4: Insert your hook in 1 st of the skirt and the next st of the body, make 1 sc. In the same way, make 1 sc in the next 23 st all around. (24)
Round 5: [1 sc in next 2 st, 1 dec] x6. (18)
Round 6: [1 sc in next 2 st, inc in next st] x6. (24)
Rounds 7 to 9: [1 sc in all st]. (24)
Round 10: [1 sc in next 2 st, 1 dec] x6. (18)
Round 11: [1 sc in all st]. (18)
We will now attach the arms on both sides by 3 stitches. To determine where to place the arm, I would suggest folding the body in half (see picture below) and placing a stitch marker in the two stitches on each corner. You should have 8 stitches between your stitch markers on both sides (see graphic below). If it is not the case, move one of your makers in order to get this result.
Unfold the body and place a stitch marker in the stitches placed just before the stitches with the stitch markers you placed previously.
Fold the arms in two. You will join the arms with three stitches.
Round 12: sc in all st until your first st marker;
Take your first arm and insert your hook in the two stitches on the right of the arm and in the stitch of the body with the first stitch marker, make 1 sc;
Insert your hook in the two stitches in the middle of the arm and in the stitch of the body with the second stitch marker, make 1 sc;
Insert your hook in the two stitches on the left of the arm and in the next stitch of the body, make 1 sc;
Make 1 sc in the next 7 st.
Take your second arm and insert your hook in the two stitches on the right of the arm and in the stitch of the body with the third stitch marker, make 1 sc;
Insert your hook in the two stitches in the middle of the arm and in the stitch of the body with the fourth stitch marker, make 1 sc;
Insert your hook in the two stitches on the left of the arm and in the next stitch of the body, make 1 sc;
Make 1 sc in the all the following st to complete your round. (18)
Round 13: [1 sc in all st]. (18)
Stuff the body.
Change to the Ivory yarn (for the head).
Round 14: [1 sc in next, 1 dec ] x6. (12)
Round 15: [1 sc in next st, 1 inc] x6. (18)
Round 16: [1 sc in next 2 st, 1 inc] x6. (24)
Round 17: 1 sc in all st. (24)
Round 18: [1 sc in next 3 st, 1 inc] x6. (30)
Rounds 19 to 22: 1 sc in all st. (30)
Round 23: [1 sc in next 3 st, 1 dec] x6. (24)
Round 24: 1 sc in all st. (24)
Place the eyes between Rounds 21 and 22. I left 3 st. between both eyes.
Round 25: [2 sc in next st, 1 dec] x6. (18)
Stuff the head.
Round 26: [1 sc in next st, 1 dec] x6. (12)
Round 27: [6 dec]. (18)
Close the head, cut the yarn and sew in the ends.
Honestly, I loved her already even without hair…probably even more without hair!
The hair – Little Doll Crochet Pattern
How to crochet the doll’s hair?
I used Caron simply soft to make the hair as I wanted to give it a more natural look than the cotton yarn would make.
With the brown yarn and the 3.5 mm hook
Work in rounds, do not turn unless specified. If needed, use a stitch marker for the first stitch of each round.
Round 1: start 6 sc in a magic ring. (6)
Round 2: 1 inc in all st. (12)
Round 3: [1 sc in next st, inc in next st] x6. (18)
Round 4: [1 sc in next 2 st, inc in next st] x6. (24)
Round 5: [1 sc in next 3 st, inc in next st] x6. (30)
Rounds 6 to 9: [1 sc in all st]. (30)
Before to keep going, make sure that the hair fits on the head.
Round 10: [1 sc in next st, ch 10. *Make 2 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in the next 2 ch.* Repeat *…* 3 times. Make 1 sc in the same st where you made you 1st sc (in red). 1 sc in next st of round 9, ch 10. *Make 1 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, 1 sc in the next 8 ch. Make 1 sc in the same st where you made you 1st sc (in blue)] x 9.
Cut the yarn and sew in the ends.
If you want, you can use the hair like this. If you want to give it a look more natural like I did, follow the next step:
Fold the hair in two. Take your tapestry needle and a double string of yarn. From the inside of the hair, insert your tapestry needle in the fold. Then insert it back at the base of the hair (see pictures above). Please note that folding the hair just helps you to know where the middle is and where you should do the parting. But I would suggest you to unfold it once you know where to insert your tapestry needle in order to keep the shape of the head.
Repeat for all the hair with the exception of the fringe (see pictures below).
Place now the hair on the head. Make a fringe in the same way that you did for the hair at the back but insert your tapestry needle in the head (see pictures below).
Sew the back of the hair to the head.
The belt
With the white yarn and the 3.5 mm hook:
Make a ch of 25. 1 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. 1 sc in the next 23 ch.
Sew the belt to the waist of the doll.
Congratulations, your sweet Rosie is done! If you made it, please be sure to tag @natalinacraft on social media with the hashtag #natalinacraft, I would love to see your work!
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Love your little doll. As you said, perfect size. the only thing I would add is a mouth. Little girls need to be able to speak. Thank you for the pattern.
Thank you very much Susan. My sister told me the same thing about the mouth. Unfortunately, I already gave the doll but I will try with my next doll! I would love to see yours if you make one.